The Ultimate Home Inspection Checklist: 9 Critical Things You Can't Overlook

Welcome. As Levan Tsiklauri, a real estate advisor deeply rooted in the Hudson Valley, I've guided countless buyers through the exhilarating, and often nerve-wracking, process of purchasing a home. Let me be clear: the home inspection is not a mere formality or a box to be checked. It is the single most important moment of due diligence you will undertake. This is your ultimate opportunity to look behind the curtain, understand the true condition of your potential home, and gain the knowledge you need to make a final, confident commitment.  

This is not a "pass/fail" test. Nearly every home, new or old, will have a list of issues. Instead, think of this as an in-depth educational experience. For buyers in the Hudson Valley, this is particularly crucial. Our region is blessed with a rich history, reflected in its charming but often centuries-old housing stock. From stone farmhouses in Ulster County to Victorian homes in Dutchess, these properties come with unique characteristics and potential challenges that generic online checklists simply cannot address.  

This guide is designed to be different. It is meticulously tailored for the Hudson Valley buyer. It will arm you with the knowledge to walk alongside your inspector, ask intelligent questions, and decode the final report like a seasoned professional. This checklist is your tool of empowerment, transforming anxiety into confidence and ensuring your investment is a sound one.

The 9-Point Hudson Valley Home Inspection Checklist

1. The Foundation, Structure & Basement: The Bones of Your Home

The integrity of a home begins at its base. A thorough inspector will conduct a visual assessment of the foundation, basement, and any accessible crawlspaces, looking for the tell-tale signs of stress and failure. This includes searching for significant cracks, bulging walls, or evidence of shifting. They will also examine visible structural components, such as floor joists, support columns, and main beams, for any signs of damage, wood rot, insect infestation, or improper modifications that could compromise the home's stability. Finally, the basement will be meticulously checked for any evidence of water intrusion, past or present. This includes looking for water stains on walls, efflorescence (a white, chalky deposit left by evaporating moisture), active leaks, and a general sense of dampness or musty odors.  

This is arguably the most critical part of an inspection in our region. Many of the Hudson Valley's most desirable historic homes, especially those built before 1940, rest on beautiful fieldstone or cut stone foundations. While visually stunning, these foundations have countless mortar joints that, over a century or more, can become pathways for water intrusion—a vulnerability not present in modern, monolithic concrete foundations. Hiring an inspector who is intimately familiar with these historic construction methods is not just a recommendation; it is a necessity. Foundation issues are consistently among the most expensive and disruptive repairs a homeowner can face, with costs easily running into the tens of thousands of dollars. In severe cases, significant structural problems can even make a property ineligible for financing.  

The connection between our region's historic foundations and water problems is direct and profound. The mortar in a 150-year-old stone wall is its weakest link. Unlike modern homes, which are often protected by exterior waterproofing membranes and foundation drainage systems, these older structures rely almost entirely on one thing to stay dry: keeping surface water away from the building in the first place. This makes the slope of the land around the house, known as grading, critically important. What might be a minor grading issue for a new construction home can be a catastrophic defect for a historic one, as it directs water right where the foundation is most vulnerable. These two factors—an old stone foundation and improper grading—work together to create a high-risk scenario for chronic water intrusion, which can lead to mold, rot, and the eventual decay of the home's structural supports.  

Common Red Flags to Watch For:

• Horizontal Cracks: Any horizontal crack in a concrete or block foundation wall is a serious red flag, often indicating immense pressure from the soil and water outside (hydrostatic pressure).  
• Stair-Step Cracks: Cracks that follow the mortar joints in a brick or block wall in a stair-step pattern are a classic sign of foundation settling.  
• Bowing or Bulging Walls: If a basement wall appears to be bowing inward, it is under significant external pressure and its structural integrity is compromised.  
• Sticking Doors and Windows: When a home's foundation shifts, it can warp the frames of doors and windows, causing them to stick, jam, or show uneven gaps.  
• Sloping Floors: A floor that is noticeably out of level is a clear indicator of settling or problems with the underlying support structure.  

2. The Roof & Attic: Your Primary Shield from the Elements

The roof and attic work in tandem to protect the home from the weather. The inspector will assess the condition of the roofing material, whether it's asphalt shingles, slate, or metal, and estimate its remaining lifespan. They will look for common failure points like missing, curled, buckled, or cracked shingles. Crucial attention is paid to the flashing—the metal strips that seal the joints around chimneys, skylights, and vents, which are common sources of leaks. The condition of gutters and downspouts is also evaluated to ensure they are effectively channeling water away from the house. Inside, the attic provides a wealth of information. The inspector will scan the underside of the roof deck for water stains, a definitive sign of a leak. They will also check the rafters and framing for structural damage, assess the amount and condition of the insulation, and, critically, verify that the attic is properly ventilated.  

In the Hudson Valley, the roof faces a formidable adversary: our Northeast climate. The cycle of heavy snow, ice, and intense seasonal storms puts enormous stress on every component of a roofing system. A particularly destructive and frequent issue is ice damming. Many older homes in our area were built before modern ventilation standards were understood, making them highly susceptible. When an attic is poorly insulated and ventilated, heat from the living space below escapes and warms the roof deck. This melts the snow on the roof from the bottom up. The meltwater then runs down to the cold, unheated roof overhangs (the eaves), where it refreezes, forming a literal dam of ice. As more snow melts, water pools behind this dam and is forced back up and under the shingles, leading to significant water damage inside the attic and walls.  

Therefore, an attic inspection here is about far more than just looking for leaks; it's a diagnostic evaluation of the home's entire thermal envelope. A simple note from an inspector about "inadequate insulation" should not be taken lightly. It's not merely a comment on future energy bills; it is a direct warning of a high-risk environment for destructive ice dams. This single observation flags the potential for rotted roof decking, damaged ceiling and wall finishes, and the development of mold, transforming a maintenance note into a potential major defect warning.

Common Red Flags to Watch For:

• An excessive amount of coarse, sand-like granules from asphalt shingles collecting in the gutters is a sign that the shingles are deteriorating and nearing the end of their service life.  
• Dark stains, sagging areas, or a spongy feel to the roof deck (viewed from the attic) indicate prolonged moisture exposure and potential rot.  
• Attic insulation that is damp, compressed, or missing altogether is a primary cause of heat loss and ice dams.  
• A lack of visible soffit vents (at the eaves) and ridge vents (at the peak) suggests the attic cannot "breathe" properly, trapping heat and moisture.  

3. The Plumbing System: The Home's Circulatory System

The plumbing inspection involves a visual check of all accessible pipes, drains, and fixtures. The inspector will look for active leaks, signs of past leaks (like water stains or corrosion), and the type of piping materials used throughout the home. They will test the functional flow and pressure by turning on multiple faucets and flushing toilets simultaneously to see if the pressure drops significantly. The water heater is also a key focus; its age, condition, and proper installation will be carefully evaluated.  

For buyers of older homes in the Hudson Valley, the type of pipe material is a critical finding. Many homes built before the 1960s were constructed with galvanized steel pipes. These pipes have a major flaw: they corrode from the inside out. Over decades, layers of rust and mineral deposits build up on the interior walls of the pipes, severely restricting water flow. This leads to frustratingly low water pressure, particularly on upper floors, and can cause rust-colored water to flow from the tap when it's first turned on. More alarmingly, this internal corrosion can eventually eat through the pipe wall, leading to leaks. Research has also shown that the zinc coating used in the galvanizing process can contain lead, which can leach into the drinking water as the pipes corrode. Replacing an entire home's plumbing system is a major undertaking, requiring walls to be opened and costing many thousands of dollars.  

Common Red Flags to Watch For:

• Noticeably low water pressure when more than one fixture is running is a classic symptom of clogged galvanized pipes.  
• A burst of brown or yellowish water from a faucet that hasn't been used for a few hours indicates rust inside the pipes.  
• Visible corrosion, rust stains, or evidence of slow drips on exposed pipes and fittings, especially at threaded joints.  
• A water heater that is more than 10-12 years old or shows signs of rust and corrosion at its base is likely due for replacement.  

4. The Electrical System: Power and Safety

An electrical system inspection focuses on safety and capacity. The inspector will examine the main electrical panel to determine its amperage (capacity), identify the manufacturer (certain older panels are known fire hazards), and check for signs of overheating, crowding, or improper wiring. They will then test a representative number of outlets to confirm they are wired correctly (polarity) and are properly grounded. A key safety check is for the presence of  

GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) outlets, which are required in areas where electricity and water are in close proximity, such as kitchens, bathrooms, garages, and outdoor locations. The inspector will also identify the type of wiring visible in unfinished areas like the basement or attic.  

In the historic homes of the Hudson Valley, this visual check of the wiring type can be one of the most important findings of the entire inspection. Homes built before the 1950s often contain knob-and-tube (K&T) wiring. This early wiring system is easily identified by its white ceramic knobs, which anchor the wires to the framing, and ceramic tubes that protect them where they pass through joists. K&T wiring has two major deficiencies by modern standards: it is ungrounded, meaning it cannot support three-prong outlets and offers less protection against electrical shock, and its rubberized cloth insulation becomes extremely brittle with age. This old insulation can easily flake off if disturbed, exposing live wires and creating a significant fire hazard, especially if it comes into contact with modern insulation. Because of this risk, many insurance companies will refuse to cover a home with active K&T wiring or will charge a substantial premium, often requiring full replacement as a condition of the policy.  

Common Red Flags to Watch For:

• The unmistakable presence of white ceramic knobs and tubes along floor joists in the basement or rafters in the attic.  
• A prevalence of two-prong (ungrounded) electrical outlets throughout the home.  
• An old-fashioned fuse box with screw-in fuses instead of a modern panel with circuit breakers.  
• Signs of amateur wiring, such as wires connected with electrical tape instead of being enclosed in a proper junction box, or exposed, uncapped wires.  

5. The HVAC System: Comfort and Air Quality

The inspector will test the Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC) system to ensure it is functioning. Using normal controls like the thermostat, they will confirm that the furnace or boiler produces heat and the air conditioner produces cool air. The inspection is not an exhaustive analysis of performance but a check of basic operation. The inspector will record the system's age (usually found on a data plate on the unit), its general physical condition, and its fuel source—natural gas, propane, or, very commonly in our area, heating oil. They will also visually inspect any accessible ductwork for signs of damage or disconnection.  

The Hudson Valley's cold winters and warm summers mean that a functioning HVAC system is not a luxury; it's a necessity. The age of the equipment is the most important piece of information you can get from this part of the inspection. A typical furnace has a service life of 15-20 years, while a central air conditioning unit lasts about 10-15 years. A system operating beyond its expected lifespan is not just less efficient; it's living on borrowed time. The failure of a furnace in the middle of a January cold snap is an emergency, and a full system replacement is a major capital expense, often costing $10,000 or more. Identifying an aging system during the inspection allows you to budget for this inevitable replacement or use it as a point of negotiation.  

Common Red Flags to Watch For:

• The manufacturer's date on the unit indicates it is at or beyond its typical service life.  
• Visible rust, corrosion, or water stains on or around the furnace, boiler, or outdoor A/C condenser unit.  
• The system makes loud, unusual noises (banging, screeching, grinding) during operation or seems to turn on and off more frequently than it should (short-cycling).  
• An extremely dirty air filter or blower compartment, which is a clear sign of long-term neglect and deferred maintenance.  

6. The Exterior & Grading: Deflecting Water is Key

The exterior inspection is a top-to-bottom visual survey of the home's outer shell. The inspector will assess the condition of the siding, looking for rot in wood, cracks in brick, or damage to vinyl. They will check the trim around windows and doors and the condition of the paint, as peeling or blistering paint can indicate underlying moisture issues. Windows are checked for functionality and for failed thermal seals, which appear as condensation or fogginess between the glass panes. However, the most critical part of the exterior inspection is the assessment of the grading—the slope of the ground around the home's foundation.  

As detailed in the foundation section, proper grading is the absolute first line of defense against water intrusion, especially for the older stone and brick foundations common in the Hudson Valley. The rule of thumb is simple and non-negotiable: water must flow away from the house. Ideally, the ground should slope downward at least six inches over the first ten feet away from the foundation. When the grade is flat or, even worse, slopes toward the house (negative grading), it acts like a funnel, directing every drop of rain and snowmelt directly against the foundation walls. This creates immense hydrostatic pressure and virtually guarantees a wet basement or crawlspace, leading to the host of problems already discussed.  

Common Red Flags to Watch For:

• Soil, mulch, or paving materials are built up high against the foundation, covering the concrete and touching the wood siding. This not only traps moisture but also provides a hidden highway for termites and other wood-destroying insects.  
• Visible puddles, standing water, or chronically soggy ground near the foundation hours or days after it rains.  
• Gutter downspouts that terminate right at the corner of the house, dumping gallons of roof water directly into the soil next to the foundation instead of being extended at least five to ten feet away.  
• Areas of peeling paint, soft wood, or visible rot on the siding, trim, and window sills, particularly on the lower portions of the house.  

7. The Interior: Walls, Floors & Ceilings

When an inspector walks through the interior of a home, they are looking for symptoms of deeper problems. The condition of the walls, floors, and ceilings can tell a story about the health of the structure, roof, and plumbing systems. The inspection involves looking for significant cracks in drywall or plaster, discoloration from water stains, and floors that are noticeably sloped, sagging, or feel unusually bouncy underfoot.  

In the historic homes of our region, which often feature original plaster walls, it's important to distinguish between minor cosmetic issues and major structural warnings. Some hairline cracks in old plaster are to be expected as a house settles over a century. However, large, active cracks—especially diagonal ones that radiate from the corners of doors and windows—are often a direct symptom of ongoing foundation movement and should be taken very seriously. An inspector's trained eye is also wary of quick cosmetic fixes. A single, freshly painted ceiling in an otherwise un-retouched room might look appealing, but it could also be a deliberate attempt to cover up water stains from a recent roof or bathroom leak.  

Common Red Flags to Watch For:

• Any water stain on a ceiling is a major red flag. Its location provides clues: a stain under an upstairs bathroom points to a plumbing leak, while one in the corner of a top-floor room suggests a roof leak.  
• Floors that feel soft, spongy, or excessively bouncy can indicate that the underlying floor joists have been damaged by water, rot, or insects.  
• Large, prominent cracks in walls or ceilings, especially those that are wider than 1/8 of an inch or show signs of separation.  
• Interior doors that have been shaved down at the top or bottom. This is often done to allow the door to close in a frame that has been warped by a shifting foundation.  

8. Health & Safety Items: Protecting Your Family

This category covers a broad range of items that pose a direct risk to the occupants' health and safety. The inspector will verify the presence and test the basic function of smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. They will check that stairways have secure, graspable handrails to prevent falls. A significant part of this assessment involves identifying materials commonly used in older construction that are now known to be hazardous.  

The age of the housing stock in the Hudson Valley makes this a particularly important point. Homes built before 1980 have a high probability of containing asbestos in a variety of materials, such as old 9x9 inch vinyl floor tiles, "popcorn" ceiling textures, siding shingles, and, most commonly, as a white, fibrous insulation wrapped around old heating pipes and boilers. Similarly, any home built before 1978 is presumed to contain lead-based paint. It is critical to understand that a standard home inspector's role is not to test for these substances. Per industry standards, they are generalists who are trained to identify suspect materials and recommend further evaluation by a certified specialist. The process of confirming the presence of lead or asbestos through lab testing, and the subsequent cost of professional abatement (removal), can be substantial and falls outside the scope of the initial inspection.  

This distinction creates a crucial moment of decision for a buyer. When an inspector notes "material consistent with asbestos" or "peeling paint in a pre-1978 home," it is not a confirmation of a hazard, but a strong recommendation to bring in specialists. This means the buyer's due diligence costs have just increased, as they now face a new, and as-yet-unquantified, potential expense. You must then decide whether to pay for certified testing during your limited inspection period to define the risk or to proceed with the purchase accepting that unknown future cost.

Common Red Flags to Watch For:

• A white or grey, fibrous, almost cloth-like wrapping on old heating or water pipes is highly suspect for asbestos.  
• 9x9 inch floor tiles, especially in basements or older kitchens, are a common asbestos-containing material.  
• Any peeling, chipping, or alligatoring paint in a home built before 1978 represents a potential lead hazard, especially for households with young children.  
• Missing or non-functional smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.  
• Stairways of four or more steps that lack a secure handrail.  

9. Hudson Valley Specifics: Wells, Septic Systems & Buried Oil Tanks

This final point is the most important for anyone buying outside of the Hudson Valley's main city centers. It is absolutely vital to understand that a standard home inspector is a generalist and is typically not qualified to perform the in-depth analysis these complex systems require. The inspection of a private well, septic system, or the search for a buried oil tank must be conducted by separate, specially qualified professionals. As your agent, I would ensure these specialized inspections are scheduled concurrently with the main home inspection. The failure of any one of these systems can be catastrophic, potentially rendering a home uninhabitable and costing tens of thousands of dollars to remedy. Furthermore, many older homes in the region were once heated with oil, and an undiscovered, leaking buried oil tank can create an environmental contamination scenario for which the new homeowner becomes legally and financially responsible.  

Your Specialized Inspection Checklist

• Private Well System:
• Well Flow Test: This is a non-negotiable test for any property with a well. A specialist will run water from the well at a high rate for a sustained period, often an hour or more, to measure its output in gallons per minute (GPM). This test determines if the well can adequately meet the demands of a modern household without the risk of running dry. A sustained flow rate of 3-5 GPM is generally considered sufficient for a typical single-family home.  
• Water Quality Test: A water sample must be sent to a state-certified laboratory for analysis. At a minimum, the test should check for bacteria (total coliform and E. coli), lead, nitrates, and nitrites. The New York State Department of Health provides comprehensive recommendations for private well owners, which you can review directly on their website:(https://www.health.ny.gov/environmental).  

• Septic System:
• Full Septic Inspection: This is far more comprehensive than a simple dye test. A qualified septic inspector will first locate the septic tank and have the cover excavated and removed. They will then measure the levels of sludge and scum inside the tank to determine if it needs pumping, check the condition of the inlet and outlet baffles (which are critical for proper function), and assess the structural integrity of the tank itself. The inspection also includes a walk of the drain field (or leach field) to look for signs of failure, such as soggy ground, foul odors, or unusually green, spongy grass.  
• Septic Dye Test: While not sufficient on its own, a dye test is an important part of a full inspection. The inspector introduces a brightly colored, fluorescent dye into the home's plumbing. If this dye becomes visible on the surface of the lawn, in nearby ditches, or in local water bodies, it is definitive proof that the system is failing and releasing untreated effluent into the environment.  
• NY Law: It is critical for buyers to know that New York State does not have a statewide law requiring septic system inspections at the time of property transfer. While some individual counties or towns have enacted their own local ordinances, many have not. This means the responsibility for conducting this vital due diligence falls squarely on you, the buyer.  
• Buried Oil Tank:
• Oil Tank Sweep: If the home you are considering was built before the 1980s and is currently heated by natural gas or propane, or if you see any evidence of old fill pipes or vent pipes on the property, you must order an oil tank sweep. A specialist will use advanced equipment, including ground-penetrating radar (GPR) and sophisticated metal detectors, to scan the property for a buried steel tank. The discovery of a leaking underground storage tank (LUST) can trigger an environmental cleanup costing anywhere from $10,000 to over $100,000, and under New York State law, the liability for that cleanup transfers to the new property owner upon purchase. This is one of the single greatest financial risks in a Hudson Valley real estate transaction.  

Beyond the Checklist: Interpreting Your Report

Receiving a 50-page inspection report filled with photos and technical descriptions can be overwhelming. The key to managing this information without anxiety is to categorize the findings and focus on what truly matters for your decision-making process. Every item noted by the inspector can be sorted into one of three priority levels.  

Major vs. Minor: What's a Deal Breaker?

Use the table below as your guide to cut through the noise and create a strategic action plan. It will help you distinguish between true home inspection deal breakers and minor issues that are simply part of homeownership.

Should the buyer attend the home inspection?

The answer is yes, absolutely. While you are not required to be present, it is profoundly in your best interest to attend the full inspection. This is your single best opportunity to learn about the home you are about to purchase. By walking with the inspector, you can see issues with your own eyes, ask questions in real-time, and gain a level of context and understanding that a written report can never fully convey. Furthermore, the inspector can point out the locations of essential components like the main water shut-off valve, the main fuel shut-off, and the electrical panel—critical information that you will need from day one of homeownership.  

What fixes are mandatory after a home inspection in NY?

This is a question every buyer asks, and the answer often comes as a surprise. In New York State, the short answer is: none. New York is a state that largely operates under the legal principle of "caveat emptor," which translates to "let the buyer beware".  

A seller is not legally obligated to perform any repairs based on the findings of a home inspection. The inspection report is a tool for your benefit—to inform your final decision and to provide leverage for negotiation. Your power to get issues addressed comes not from state law, but from the inspection contingency clause within your purchase contract. This clause gives you a specified period to conduct your inspections and, based on the results, to either:

1. Accept the property as-is.
2. Negotiate with the seller for repairs.
3. Negotiate for a seller credit or a reduction in the sale price.
4. Cancel the contract and have your deposit returned if you cannot reach a satisfactory agreement.  

The only common exceptions where repairs might become mandatory are when they are required by a buyer's lender (for example, certain government-backed loans like FHA or VA have minimum property standards) or if a specific issue violates a local health or building code.  

Conclusion & Call to Action

A home inspection report is not a scorecard that grades a house. It is your textbook, your owner's manual, your guide to making one of the biggest financial decisions of your life. A "good" report is not one that is short and free of issues; it is one that is long, detailed, and provides you with a complete and honest understanding of the property you are about to call home. Armed with this knowledge, you hold the power to proceed with confidence, fully aware of the investment you are making, its strengths, and its future needs.

An inspection is only as good as the inspector. If you're buying in the Hudson Valley, you need an expert who understands our local homes—from 18th-century stone basements to modern septic systems. Let's talk—I can connect you with some of the most thorough and trusted inspectors in the region. Schedule Your Free Buyer Consultation Today.

Levan Tsiklauri (LT) | Realtor®| [ Book a Consultation▸]

(917) 905-7923 | Levan@realtylt.com | www.realtylt.com

RealtyLT | United Real Estate | 1097 Route 55, Suite 9, Lagrangeville, NY 12540